From Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp: A Journey of Resilience and Discovery

Day 1 - 9/29/2024 - Kathmandu

After a marathon 24-hour journey, we finally touched down in Kathmandu, having flown through the opulent Doha, Qatar. The landing was nothing short of spectacular, with the skyline showcasing some of the most stunning architecture I've ever seen. The airport itself was a marvel, and Alicia aptly remarked that it "smelled like money"—a sentiment I couldn't disagree with.

Alicia, ever the planner, had arranged for an escort to help us navigate the airport. This wonderful individual ensured our checked bags were seamlessly transferred to our next flight and whisked us away to a luxurious lounge to relax. Skipping the lines and breezing through to our next flight felt like a VIP experience.

Our business class flight to Doha was a dream, but the subsequent economy flight to Kathmandu was a harsh reality check, especially since I ended up in the dreaded middle seat. Alicia usually takes that spot, but I figured it was her turn this time. The silver lining was the breathtaking view of the Himalayas as we descended into Kathmandu.

Immigration was relatively smooth, though Alicia and I were separated during security. I hadn't realized how much she was lugging around in her backpack and purse. My backpack was practically empty, so I should have offered to carry some of her stuff—lesson learned.

We were greeted by our guide, Bibek, who efficiently got us to our hotel. After checking in, we enjoyed a much-needed dinner, took refreshing baths, and promptly collapsed into bed, ready for the adventures that awaited us in this enchanting city.

Day 2 - 9/30/2024 - Kathmandu

Our second day in Kathmandu kicked off with a meeting with Ram, the charismatic owner of Sublime Trails Tour Company, and Depas, our knowledgeable guide for the day. With their expertise, we embarked on an unforgettable tour of the city.

First on the agenda were the magnificent temples and stupas, each more awe-inspiring than the last. The intricate architecture and serene atmosphere left us in a state of wonder. We then wandered through the bustling Royal Square, where history seemed to come alive with every step.

A visit to a local painting studio was next, where we marveled at the skill and dedication of the artists. The vibrant colors and intricate details of their work were truly mesmerizing. Our next stop was a healing bowl place, where we experienced the soothing sounds and vibrations of these unique instruments. It was a moment of pure relaxation and tranquility.

The tour took a somber turn as we visited a crematorium attached to a Shiva temple. Here, we witnessed the deeply spiritual and traditional process of bodies being wrapped and burned on a pyre by the holy river. It was a poignant reminder of the cycle of life and death, and the reverence with which it is treated in this culture.

By the end of the day, we were both physically and emotionally enriched, having experienced the profound beauty and depth of Kathmandu's heritage.

Day 3 - 10/1/2024 - Kathmandu - Lukla - Monjo - 8.64 Miles

Ah, the first day of trekking—fondly remembered as "pure hell." Our day began at the ungodly hour of 3:30 AM, though I suspect Alicia was up even earlier. By 7:00 AM, we were in the lobby, ready to meet our guide, Bibek, for our departure.

However, our helicopter flight was delayed from 8:30 to 9:00 AM, and after several rounds of "hurry up and wait," we finally took off around 11:30 AM for a 45-minute flight to Lukla.

The flight itself was a mix of awe and sorrow. The Kathmandu valley had been ravaged by late monsoon rains, causing numerous landslides and over 100 deaths. The devastation was visible throughout our flight path, casting a somber shadow over the otherwise breathtaking views.

Upon landing in Lukla, we grabbed a quick lunch and began our hike at 1:30 PM—much later than planned. What was supposed to be a four to five-hour hike stretched to over five hours, partly due to a 30-minute delay in obtaining our trekking passes, essential for non-nationals on the trail. Our primary concern now was beating the impending darkness, a race we ultimately lost.

To make matters worse, we had forgotten to pack our headlights in our day packs. The pace was grueling as we pushed harder than I would have liked, trying to outpace the setting sun. By the time we reached the tea house in Monjo, I was utterly exhausted and drenched in sweat. The last hour of our trek was in complete darkness, and it was nothing short of brutal. Alicia, of course, seemed to handle it better than I did.

Finally, we arrived at our rooms, which were a sight for sore eyes. A hot shower and a hearty dinner awaited us. Despite the onions in the meal (which I despise), I was too hungry to complain. We slept like the dead, utterly spent from the day's ordeal.

Day 4 - 10/2/2024 - Monjo to Namche Bazaar - 5.14 Miles

Another grueling day, but thankfully not as brutal as the first. I managed to get a decent night's sleep, unlike poor Alicia, who was up at 3:30 AM again. We had breakfast at 7:30 AM and set off around 8:15 AM, ready to tackle the day's challenge: a 2,100-foot climb to Namche Bazaar.

The trek started with a series of ups and downs, a warm-up for the main event. We crossed the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge, an exhilarating experience with the old bridge below now serving as a bungee jumping spot. After the bridge, the real climb began—a relentless 1.5-hour ascent that felt like pure agony. Or so we thought.

Reaching Namche Bazaar was a relief, and the village was a delightful surprise. It was bustling with shops, restaurants, and hotels, offering everything a weary trekker might need. But our journey wasn't over yet. Our hotel, the Panorama Lodge, was aptly named for its stunning views, which meant more stairs to climb. What felt like an eternity was actually just 10 to 15 minutes, but after the day's trek, it was a mental kick in the pants.

Finally, we reached the hotel, had a much-needed lunch, and settled into our rooms. Just when we thought we could relax, we headed out for another hike—uphill, of course. We visited a lookout with a huge statue of Sir Edmund Hillary and a museum. Unfortunately, the clouds obscured much of the view, but it was still a cool spot.

We hiked back to the hotel, cleaned up, and squeezed in a nap before dinner. Bibek briefed us on the mountain and the plan for the next day. Exhausted, we crashed hard, ready for whatever adventures awaited us next.

Day 5 - 10/3/2024 - Namche Bazaar - "Acclimation Day"

Today was our acclimation day, and what a day it was! We woke up bright and early, ready to tackle a hike with an elevation gain of about 1,200 feet, aiming for an altitude of around 12,500 feet. Our destination? The Everest viewpoint, a three to four-hour trek that promised stunning vistas—if the weather cooperated.

The climb was challenging, but I felt more in tune with the altitude today. Despite the huffing and puffing, I found myself recovering faster during breaks and on less steep sections. Alicia, however, found this climb particularly tough due to the high steps that demanded a lot of effort to scale.

On our way up, we stopped at Sagarmatha Next, an initiative aimed at reducing waste on the mountain. This place was fascinating, educating trekkers on the importance of carrying a bag of waste back down from Namche Bazaar to Lukla. The bags weighed about 1 kilogram each. They also had a creative solution for plastic bottle caps, which can't be recycled—they shred, melt, and mold them into models of the mountain range for sale. Naturally, we bought two.

Continuing our ascent, we passed a yoga center before reaching our destination, the Hotel Everest View teahouse. We were told that on a clear day, you could see all the mountains from there. Unfortunately, the clouds had other plans, and our view was obscured. But the primary goal was to gain some elevation, and that we did.

After descending back to our tea house, we made a quick run down to the village, fully aware that we'd have to climb back up later. We stocked up on candy, toilet paper, and real ponchos—ditching our flimsy plastic ones. We wandered around, watching boys play volleyball (who knew it was the national sport?), and spun the prayer wheels at the Stupa for good luck.

Lunch was a treat at Namaste Bakery, where we devoured a large cinnamon roll and some pizza. But the real reason for our descent was to visit the highest Irish pub in the world. I enjoyed a Guinness while Alicia sipped on hot chocolate. I even bought a T-shirt as a souvenir.

The climb back up to the tea house wasn't as bad as we feared, though we did get a bit lost at first. Once back, we headed to the dining room to play some games. Realizing we didn't remember any card games, we started playing War. Bibek joined us halfway through and taught us Dhumbal, the national card game. We played it all night until dinner.

After dinner, Bibek briefed us on the next day's plan, which included rain—bummer. But as we went to bed, the sky cleared, revealing stars and the lights on the mountains. It was a promising end to a challenging but rewarding day.

Day 6 - 10/4/2024 - Namche Bazaar to Tasinga - 4.47 Miles

We woke up to crystal clear skies and stunning mountain views right from our room—a perfect start to the day. After a hearty breakfast at 7:00 AM, we set off at 7:45 AM, eager to explore.

Our first stop was the Hillary statue lookout, and this time, the view was absolutely breathtaking. We could see a panorama of majestic peaks, including Ama Dablam and even a glimpse of Everest. It was a sight that made all the previous days' struggles worth it.

We then continued our journey to Tasinga and the Everest Summit Lodge. We were promised an easier trek today, and it certainly felt that way. The path was more forgiving, and the views along the way were nothing short of spectacular.

We arrived at the lodge just before 11:00 AM. This place was a gem, offering more wonderful views and a cozy atmosphere. We spent the rest of the day lounging around, soaking in the serene beauty of our surroundings.

Day 7 - 10/5/2024 - Tasinga to Debuche - 4.63 Miles

Today began with a small tragedy—I left my beloved Bluetooth night mask back in Tasinga. It had been my salvation for a good night's sleep. Tonight, I'll have to improvise with my earbuds and pull my Vans beanie down over my eyes. Stay tuned for the status report on that tomorrow.

We had breakfast at 7:00 AM and set off around 7:45 AM. After a short trek downhill, we crossed another suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi, aptly named the "milk river." Then the real climb began. Bibek assured us it would take no more than two hours. We managed it in about an hour and a half, passing several porters along the way, each carrying 60-kilo loads of wood. We later learned they were delivering supplies for a new tea house being built at the top.

Reaching the top, we arrived at the Tengboche Monastery, home to 55 Buddhist monks. This was an incredible experience. We prayed with one of the monks, who blessed us with red string necklaces, placing them around our necks. We were instructed not to shower with them on. He also blessed four more necklaces—one for Alicia's sister, two for my daughters, and one for my father. Although we couldn't take pictures inside the room with the large Buddha, the beauty of the space was unforgettable. We did get to take pictures in another room adorned with amazing Hindu art.

After our visit, we took a short trek down to our next tea house, Rivendell. Alicia and I spotted it, but our guide mentioned we were heading to their new location further down the trail. Turns out, we were right the first time, so we had to trek back.

Day 8 - 10/6/2024 - Deboche to Dingboche - 6.7 Miles

First off, the air buds were a total fail—only a few hours of charge. And there was almost another tragedy: my tea house shoes went missing! One of the other guests thought they belonged to the tea house. We spent the morning checking everyone's feet as they came into the dining room. They even let me access the security cameras. Eventually, we found them in a guest room. Crisis averted!

Today's trek included an extra climb to visit the Pangboche Monastery, established in the 16th century. Here, we saw the legendary Yeti skull and hand. We also witnessed a ceremony where climbers were blessed before their ascent of Ama Dablam. It was a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual side of mountaineering.

We arrived in Dingboche and checked into our room at Hotel Good Luck. After lunch, we explored the village, taking the scenic route. We bought more candy and ran into our porter, Laxman, who showed us the shortest path back to the tea house.

This tea house was pretty cool, though not as nice as the others and quite crowded. It was interesting to see people from various countries, all united by the same goal of trekking through these mountains. Our card tournament continued, with me perpetually in second place. Alicia, of course, won the night.

Day 9 - 10/7/2024 - Dingboche - "Acclimation Day" - 4.88 Miles

Holy moly, today's hike was a beast! We tackled a 2.44-mile climb with an elevation gain of 2,200 feet. It was brutal going up and no picnic coming back down. We reached the top at 16,611 feet, the highest I've ever been. This spot is known as Nagkartshang Gompa peak. In Nepal, it has to be above 6,500 meters to be called a mountain, so this was just a "peak"—but what a peak it was!

The climb was worth every grueling step. The views from the top were absolutely breathtaking, the best I've ever seen. We soaked in the panoramic vistas before heading back down to the village for lunch at the Sherpa Bakery.

Before dinner, we resumed our card tournament. Despite my best efforts, I lost every game again. Alicia's winning streak continues!

Day 10 - 10/8/2024 - Dingboche to Lobuche - 6.82 Miles

Today's hike was a bit more forgiving, with a long, slow ascent. Okay, there were a few tough climbs thrown in for good measure. We stopped in a quaint village called Dughla for some tea. Alicia indulged in her new favorite, lemon ginger honey, which I usually drink. I decided to switch things up with some orange tea.

From there, we faced a different kind of climb for about an hour, leading us to the Everest Memorial Chukpi Lhara. This somber place is filled with memorials to those who have lost their lives on Everest. We spent some time walking around, reading the tributes, and reflecting on the bravery and sacrifice of these climbers.

After leaving the memorial, the rest of the route was relatively easy. Snow covered everything except the trail, creating a picturesque winter wonderland. We passed the base camp for Lobuche climbers, who were preparing for their ascent to the high camp and then the peak. That climb was definitely not on our agenda!

Upon reaching the village of Lobuche, we had lunch, dropped our stuff in our room, and then hiked to the Khumbu Glacier. Our guide, Bibek, informed us that it is the highest and largest glacier in the world. It was an awe-inspiring sight, and we could hear it moving—a series of cracks echoing down the path.

We stayed at a tea house called Mother Earth, which, unfortunately, was the worst we've encountered so far. At night, there were no lights, making it feel like we were in a ghost-hunting expedition or a horror video game. At one point, I went to the bathroom and thought someone had left a bag outside their room, only to discover it was a sleeping dog. Alicia had a similar experience, and it scared the daylights out of her when the dog lifted its head.

Of course, we continued our card game tournament, and guess what? I lost again. Alicia's winning streak remains unbroken.

Day 11 - 10/9/2024 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp (EBC) - 7.89 Miles

Today was the day we finally trekked to Everest Base Camp (EBC)! Bibek advised us to layer up with heavy gloves and our down coats, and we started early with breakfast at 6:00 AM, departing at 6:30 AM. It was undeniably cold. Last night, we met another couple from outside San Francisco—her name was Mavis, but I can't recall his name. They left 30 minutes earlier, planning to have breakfast in Gorak Shep, which Bibek said should take no more than three hours to reach. It was a slow, sludgy climb that took us 2.5 hours.

We stopped at the Snowland Hotel, our last house on the mountain, the highest and coldest. We had some tea since it was too early for lunch, and then set off for EBC. Our excitement was palpable. Bibek told us it would be another steady uphill climb, taking about 2.5 hours. He was spot on, having gauged our pace perfectly. About 20 minutes from EBC, we could see it. There were tents set up for those planning to stay the night. We were actually higher than EBC, looking down on it.

The views were astounding as we approached. We saw ice caves in the glacier and the ice flow coming down from the mountain pass. This is the treacherous path climbers must ascend to reach Camp One, fraught with crevasses that have claimed many lives.

Reaching EBC was an emotional moment. Nine grueling days had paid off. The weather was beautiful, the views were stunning, and we did it. The emotions were overwhelming. I never doubted I would make it unless I got sick or injured. Alicia, on the other hand, didn't have the same faith in me. I struggled hard on the climb, but like I said, I'm a Clydesdale, not a Thoroughbred. I kept my mind on each step in front of me—Bistarai, Bistarai (Slowly, Slowly).

We took many photos for ourselves and for Sublime Trails promotions, even shooting a testimonial video for them. One of the most important successes of this adventure was how it brought Alicia and me closer. Misery loves company, and we suffered through the challenges together, making us stronger as a team.

Our last hike was the return to Gorak Shep for another night. This return trek was incredibly hard. Our bodies seemed to say, "You've accomplished your goal, my work is done." The aches and pains were intense. There was an additional hike we could have taken for a nice view of Everest, but we were spent.

That night, we celebrated with a Nepal Ice beer (7%). Alicia hated it. We played two rounds of Dhumbal, and guess what? I won both! The mountains must have blessed me. We also bought hot water bottles for the bed—what a blessing. I wish we had them the night before.

Day 12 - 10/10/2024 - Gorak Shep to Kathmandu

Our final day began with a delightful surprise. At breakfast, we were greeted with a fifth wedding anniversary cake, courtesy of Bibek and the highest kitchen in the world. It was a wonderful gesture that highlighted how much Sublime Trails went out of their way to create an unforgettable experience for us.

Now came the hard part—getting back. Due to poor visibility at Lukla, we faced a long wait to get a helicopter out of Gorak Shep. The helicopters could only carry two passengers at a time because of the elevation, so they would bring two down to Pheriche, add additional passengers, and then fly us back to Lukla. What took us nine days to climb only took 20 minutes to descend. It was fascinating to see the trail from above, spotting the tea houses and monasteries we had visited.

Once we reached Lukla, the confusion began. Apparently, a middleman was brokering the helicopter flights out, turning the process into a bit of a Charlie Foxtrot. We got off our helicopter, and the guy in charge looked at us in confusion, asking, "You are going to Kathmandu?" He told us to drop off our stuff on the dock and then dropped us at a café, saying he would be back for us but not asking for our names. We hung out there for a while, and Alicia ran into a group we had met from Mexico City earlier. At some point, we checked to make sure our bags were still where we left them.

We ran into Mavis at the helicopter pad, and she advised us to go to the terminal and give them our names and passports. We found the guy who had left us at the café, and he finally set us up with a helicopter company for our return. After many false alarms and about two more hours of waiting, we finally got our helicopter back to Kathmandu. We flew with a guy from Australia and a couple from Liverpool.

Once back in Kathmandu, we grabbed a taxi and headed straight to the Marriott for a much-needed shower and dinner. It was the perfect end to an incredible journey.

Day 13 - 10/11/2024 - Kathmandu

Today was tattoo day! We allowed ourselves a bit of a lie-in before making our way to Thamel. We decided to walk, because clearly, we hadn't done enough of that already. It was the holiday of Dashain, so the streets were blissfully quiet, free from the usual traffic chaos.

We arrived at Jhee Tattoo Shop early, which turned out to be a good move. Alicia's tattoo—a cute Yeti on her arm—took just 45 minutes. Mine, however, was a different story. My huge mandala on my leg, complete with EBC and the elevation in meters, took a whopping 3.5 hours.

While I was enduring the Nepali inquisition, Alicia went shopping for gifts. I confessed to everything under the tattoo needle. Once we were done, I helped Alicia get a taxi back to the hotel, then did a bit of shopping myself and treated myself to a shave.

We spent the rest of the day bar hopping and ended up at a business that sells items made from recycled trash. The owner, John, was British and had lived in both Norway and Nepal for 40 years. His wife had grown up in prison, where she learned to make things out of recycled trash, as children accompany their mothers to prison in Nepal. John had also written a book, which I purchased.

After a bit more bar hopping, we headed back to the hotel for the night, feeling accomplished and sporting some fresh ink.

Day 14 - 10/12/2024 - Kathmandu to USA

Today marked the beginning of our journey home. Our flight wasn't until 2:00 AM the next day, so we had plenty of time to soak in the last bits of Kathmandu. We headed to Thamel to grab some drinks and buy coffee, just in the nick of time as things were closing early for the holiday.

We strolled down to Durbar Square for some last-minute shopping but found ourselves back in Thamel, where the shopping was better. We also visited a café on Kathmandu's Freak Street, a hotspot for the counterculture in the 1960s and 70s. It was a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

We met up with Ram for drinks before taking a taxi back to the hotel to pick up the Sublime duffle bag. Alicia and I then returned to Thamel for dinner and more drinks before heading to the airport.

Our flight was a dream, as we flew business class from Kathmandu to Doha to Washington DC. Doha's airport is stunning, and we spent some time shopping and exploring its many offerings.

And with that, our incredible journey came to an end. We returned home with unforgettable memories, new tattoos, and a deeper bond forged through shared adventures.

Conclusion

Our journey through Nepal was a transformative experience, one that tested our limits and rewarded us with memories that will last a lifetime. From the bustling streets of Kathmandu to the serene heights of Everest Base Camp, every step of the way was filled with awe, challenge, and discovery.

We faced grueling climbs, navigated through cultural landmarks, and embraced the local traditions that enriched our understanding of this beautiful country. The physical demands of the trek were matched by the emotional highs of reaching our goals, whether it was standing at the foot of the world's highest peak or simply sharing a quiet moment in a remote village.

This adventure brought Alicia and me closer, proving that shared challenges can strengthen bonds and create lasting connections. We laughed, we struggled, and we celebrated together, each moment adding to the tapestry of our journey.

As we return home, we carry with us not just the stories and the photos, but a renewed sense of resilience and a deeper appreciation for the world's wonders. Nepal has left an indelible mark on our hearts, and we are grateful for every experience, every view, and every step that brought us closer to the top of the world.

Here's to the next adventure, wherever it may lead. 🌏✨